Galapagos Islands Landmarks

The Galapagos Islands, which lie more than 600 miles off the west coast of the Ecuadorian mainland, were formed by lava flows millions of years ago. Most animals and birds that call it home swam, flew, or were swept here by “rafts” of vegetation floating on the ocean. The Galapagos ecosystem is probably the best preserved in the world, partly because of its remoteness.

Nowhere else is the evolution of species as clear as here; the Galapagos National Park is a natural laboratory, as Charles Darwin quickly discovered during his 19th-century expedition aboard the Beagle. (Finches evolved from one species to 13 here due to differing conditions for survival on each island.)

The islands’ animals and birds display little or no fear of humans, so you can get very close to them on your Galapagos tour — remember not to touch or disturb them or leave the designated paths.

Darwin’s name has become nearly synonymous with the history of the Galapagos islands, and rightly so. After all, it was his voyage here in 1835 that led him to many important conclusions about his theories of evolution and natural selection. To this day. Darwin’s writings on his findings remain the benchmark for scientific research in evolution and evolutionary anthropology.

In 1835, Darwin landed on the shores of Isla San Cristobal. His observations of the wildlife quickly made it clear to him that something different was happening in evolution — something other than the scientific or religious beliefs imagined or allowed for at that time.

Darwin spent nearly a month on the islands, between mid-September and mid-October, gathering specimens to bring back to England. His famous Theory of Evolution and ideas about natural selection emanated from his trip to the Galapagos. He first became intrigued by observing the species of mockingbirds on the four islands he visited.

The Ecuadorian government enforces strict environmental codes in the Galapagos National Park. Only a comparatively few visitors can go ashore on each island at one time.

With 140,000 total visitors annually, the Galapagos presents a complex juggling act to tour operators, who must time their visits precisely or risk losing key stops on their itineraries. So you’re expected to rise early and be on time for shore excursions.

Groups visiting any one site are limited to eight each, so even small ships carrying just 15 or 16 passengers must divide up and take separate trails. Of the eight most visited islands, just two — San Cristobal, the airport site, and Santa Cruz, the site of the largest town, and Darwin Station — have human populations, mostly island natives or long-term residents.

The rest of the islands are reserved for wildlife: everything ranging from marine iguanas to sea lions, giant tortoises to sea turtles, penguins to albatrosses, red-throated frigate birds to blue-footed boobies (given to doing a courtship “booby” dance that entrances onlookers).

While some visit the Galapagos by staying in one of the few towns and taking day trips by boat to other islands, the best method is to tour by a week-long small ship expedition-style cruise. (Large vessels cruising the Galapagos can’t visit as many sites, some of which are too fragile for many visitors.)

Small-ship cruises — holding about 16 passengers — are ideal because you can visit more islands and spend more time on each than if you’re based on one island and take day trips from there. You’ll also sleep and take all your meals onboard. 

A cruise may cost more, but traveling to the Galapagos is a once-in-a-lifetime experience for most people, so you’ll want to make the most of it.

Taking a small ship allows you to visit up to two islands in a day and snorkel or dive for close-up views of sea turtles, tropical fish, and sea lions.

Several tour operators run small ship cruises through the Galapagos, and by government decree, they must hire local guides and ship captains. 

Staying on trails is paramount so as not to disturb the fragile environments. Except for the tropical heat, most trails are easy for anyone to navigate, and being aboard a ship allows plenty of time to cool off between stops.

While most cruises to the Galapagos will visit multiple islands, some, depending on the duration of the itinerary and the focus, will stick to two or three of the following islands (mostly).  

Their historical significance, up-close encounters, abundance of wildlife, and availability of multiple activities, day tours, accommodation, and restaurants make them the perfect introduction to the Galapagos Islands.

This island is the most populous and commercially developed of all the Galapagos and the best place for viewing giant tortoises. On Santa Cruz Island tours, you’re guaranteed to see tortoises when you visit the Charles Darwin Research Station, but even better is viewing these mammoth creatures in the wild as they slowly migrate to find mates and lay their eggs.

The largest of the Galapagos, Isabela Island, is rich in wildlife. It’s home to thousands of giant tortoises, the most northerly penguin colony on earth, and the rare pink iguana, which inhabits the slopes of a volcano. Sea turtles, marine iguanas, offshore whales, and several bird species make this an island not to miss.

This island is famous as the site of the Galapagos’ primary international airport and the second most populous in the chain. It is also where Charles Darwin first set foot on the islands in 1835. 

San Cristobal island is one of the prime birding areas of the Galapagos, with boobies — Blue-footed, Red-footed, and Nazca — sharing the spotlight with finches and frigate birds. You can also snorkel amid sea turtles, sea lions, and tropical fish.

Galapagos is nature’s laboratory, with one species existing only mere miles away from another with similar but not the same environmental factors. Moreover, each island has its signature type of bird, reptile, or other creature. For instance, Genovesa Island is home to red-footed boobies — it’s the only island where visitors can view them — but lacks the land reptiles found on other islands.

Here are some of the astounding wildlife encounters you’ll experience on the Galapagos Islands:

“Galapagos” means “islands of the giant tortoises,” which is quite fitting, as the islands are home to 11 different populations dispersed among several islands. (There were originally 14 distinct populations; however, due to extinction, they have now dwindled to 11). 

Significant conservation efforts have been in place since the 1950s, particularly on Santa Cruz Island, where they are a top-rated tourist attraction.

Galapagos tortoises can weigh more than 600 pounds and live to age 150 or longer. (One that recently died was present when Darwin landed here.) Their top speed is about one-fifth of a mile per hour, so they’re very easy to photograph. 

The late Lonesome George, the most famous giant tortoise, was the last of his subspecies when he died in 2012. He refused to mate despite valiant efforts by naturalists to find him romantic pairings.

It is believed that the Galapagos Tortoises originally arrived on the Galapagos 2-3 million years ago from the South American Coast. They developed several unique survival adaptations, including the ability to survive without food or water for up to a full year, a response to the lack of nutrient sources on the arid landscape.

Humans also harmed them tremendously when sailors, whalers, pirates, traders, and colonists who made their way through the Galapagos throughout history used the Giant Tortoises as sources of food, oil, and trading fodder. 

This resulted in an estimated loss of between 100,000 and 200,000 tortoises over two centuries. Today, it is estimated that between 20,000 and 25,000 wild tortoises live on the islands.

These dinosaur-like reptiles are another huge draw for visitors. Land iguanas and marine iguanas are found throughout the islands, sunning themselves on the volcanic rocks, perfectly still and stoic, looking like incredibly lifelike statues.

Some eluded scientists until 1986, such as the Pink Iguana, which only lives on Wolf Volcano at the north end of Isabela. This is another example of the variety and extremely selective differentiation between one Galapagos island and another.

As we know from reading Darwin’s journals, iguanas used to live on Isla Santiago, but they somehow died out and are no longer found there. The reason could have been the number of domestic farm animals released on Santiago in the 1800s, wreaking havoc on the delicate eco-balance of the island's native and endemic species.

Marine Iguanas are rare and only live in the Galapagos. Watching them swim is distinctly like watching a mythical creature. They look like a cross between a dragon, a dinosaur, and an otherworldly mer-creature, like it came from the creative mind of Jim Henson. They spend a lot of time on land for mating and feeding, but if you get the chance to spot one on a snorkel adventure, it is a sight to behold.

Notable bird species include Darwin finches (whose beak variations and food-gathering sources from island to island also aroused Darwin’s interest), flamingoes, flightless cormorants, Galapagos penguins — the world’s most northerly penguins, found here right on the Equator — storm petrels, frigatebirds, lava gulls, albatrosses, pelicans, swallow-tailed gulls, owls, hawks, herons, and Nazca, blue- and red-footed boobies, among many others.

Sea lions and fur seals complete the “big three” you will encounter on a trip through the Galapagos. These joyful, playful, absolutely adorable mammals number in the 50,000 range, and it will take every ounce of your willpower not to pet them as they curiously rumble up to you on the beaches. 

As cute as they are, you want to keep your hands to yourself. They are highly territorial, and tourists have been known to be bit for getting too close.

The chance to see them show off and fish under the water is not to be passed up. They will playfully display twirls, upside down swimming in a seemingly tireless routine as you snorkel above. Swimming among sea lions may seem like a tourist trap kind of attraction, but it is well worth it.

Fur seals are similar to sea lions, though they are smaller and prefer less land on land, gravitating to cooler waters instead. You can spot them around the island of Floreana. Their coats are much thicker as well, contributing to their name and their unfortunate history with fur traders.

James Bay and Darwin Bay are the best places to spot this animal, which has made a positive comeback after their numbers dwindled due to many years of poaching for their prized coats.

Undoubtedly, you’ll leave the Galapagos with thousands of pictures, mainly of the incredible wildlife. Here are some tips to help you make the most of your trip and arrive home with amazing shots.

If you’re wary of getting your nice piece near the water (understandable), look into smartphone accessories. There are many ways you can make your camera phone the perfect underwater photography tool.

Most tours to the Galapagos are small-ship cruises that last about one week and visit between six and eight islands. The Ecuadorian government strictly regulates tourism to protect the fragile environment and wildlife.

This is a wildlife viewing experience like no other in the world — even the best Costa Rica jungle tours can't really compare. The animals have virtually no fear of humans because they have no reason to think any harm will come from them. So, you can get close to the wildlife but never touch or disturb the animals.

The government places a strict quota on which trails the highly trained guides can take groups each day and how many can be in each group. A particular trail may be closed one day and open the next. 

The Galapagos are hot, tropical, and casual, so you need only pack light, breathable clothing, sturdy, comfortable walking shoes, sandals, hats, long sleeves, and leg coverings for skin protection, and any swim and snorkel gear you wish to bring. 

Cameras and binoculars are a must. Don’t expect to find drugstores, ATMs, or many conveniences at most island stops, so pack what you may need in the way of supplies.

The Galapagos are remote, surrounded by beaches, waters, and lava rock. Your packing list should be light, but you want to ensure you have all the necessities. The benefit of going on a Galapagos cruise will be the ability to bring a little bit more, as you’ll only be unpacking once.