Nepal: Lo Manthang At Festival Time

 01: ARRIVE KATHMANDU. AFTERNOON WALK AND Dinner Arriving in Kathmandu, you will clear customs and immigration. Leaving the airport, you will be met by our operators holding a sign with your names on it. They will transfer you to the Tibet Hotel. The afternoon is free to explore the city. Tonight you will have a welcome dinner at Thamel House.  Accommodation : Accommodation : YAK AND YETI Meals : Dinner DAY 02: VISIT SWAYAMBUNATH, PASHUPATINATH AND BODHANATH You will rise early to visit Swayambunath, the lotus stupa, at sunrise. At this hour of the morning, the temple belongs to the local people and not the tourists. Here, where the Kathmandu Valley originated, you will wander around the great stupa, see all the morning worshippers, and listen to the sacred songs sung by the local Newaris of the valley. You can also walk the kora, or pilgrim walk, around the temple with the local devotees. When you are done, you can walk down to the Vajra Hotel for breakfast. After breakfast you will be met by the van and drive to Pashupatinath, the holiest of the Hindu shrines in Nepal. You will walk through the area, peering from a distance at the temple to Shiva, closed to non-Hindus. Then you will cross the Bagmati River, Nepal’s Ganges, and peer through the temple doors or watch what is going on along the banks. Continuing up the hill, you can stop to talk to the Milk Yogi (assuming he is there) about his many visits to Mount Kailas or his philosophy of life. Leaving the yogi, you walk up the steps and down the other side to the Guhyeswari temple. Here you will learn about the hippie god, his sad romance, and what part of the human anatomy the temple commemorates. Depending on the group, you will cross the river and drive or walk up the path towards Bodhanath. If you walk, you can see how the culture changes from the Hindu world of Pashupatinath to the Tibet to Burma Buddhist culture of Bodhanath. By the time you arrive, it will be time for lunch at the Stupa View Restaurant. After lunch, you can circumambulate the stupa, visiting the side chapels. About half way around and off to the left is a small Gelugpa monastery with some nice paintings and a copy of the Buddha displayed in the Jokhang Temple in Lhasa.  Accommodation : Accommodation : YAK AND YETI Meals : Breakfast DAY 03: FLY POKHARA AND TOUR Rising early again, you will catch a flight to Nepal’s second city – Pokhara. Lusher and more tropical than Kathmandu, Pokhara’s setting at the base of some of Nepal’s most famous mountains – Machhapuchare, Annapurna, and Dhaulagiri – has made it a haven for tourists, trekkers, and hippies. Culturally, it is where the Hindu caste groups of the valley meet the Gurungs of the nearby highlands. By the 17th century, Pokhara was part of the Kingdom of Kaski, later annexed by the present ruling Shah Dynasty. In the hills surrounding Pokhara are the ruins of palaces and forts dating back to the time of the Kaski era. On arrival, you can visit the wonderful Mountaineering Museum. After lunch, you can walk through town, visit Devi’s Falls and the cave. Late in the afternoon, you take a sunset boat ride on the lake, hopefully with mountain views. When you are ready, you will head back to the hotel.  Accommodation : Accommodation : BARAHI Meals : Breakfast DAY 04: FLY JOMSOM. WALK TO KAGBENI This morning, you will catch a flight from Pokhara to Jomsom [8891 feet.] After the flight it is necessary to spend some time in Jomsom while the trek staff sort out the loads and prepare lunch. After lunch, your trek begins by crossing the second bridge north of the airstrip to the old part of Jomsom, where the bank, post office and German Bakery are located. The trail heads north on the east bank of the wide stony Kali Gandaki. Keeping on the east side, continue past the side valley of the Panga Khola and around a bluff to the small settlement of Eklobhatti. From here another bend in the river takes you to Kagbeni and entry to the forbidden land. For the first day’s walk it is best not to hurry, as the altitude is already about 9186 feet. When you arrive, you will complete the formalities for entry into Upper Mustang. Kagbeni, or “Kak” (“block”) in Tibetan is described by Snellgrove as citadels in major need of repair, whose construction on the bank of the Kali Gandaki River blocks the entrance to the valley. It is at Kagbeni that the Mustang River plunges into the Gandaki. To some, the junction of these two rivers is considered very holy; and bottled water from where the two waters mingle is used ceremonially for the souls of one’s ancestors. Kagbeni looks like a town out of the medieval past, with closely packed mud houses, dark tunnels and alleys, imposing chortens, ruins of a palace, and a large, ochre-coloured gompa perched above the town. Here people still dress in the typical Tibetan clothing. Although the royal dynasty died out a long time ago, Tucci suggests in his book, Journey to Mustang, that a branch existed in Jumla. The monastery belongs to the Sakyapa sect, and had some frescoes that dated from the 15th and 16th centuries. Accommodation : RED HOUSE LODGE OR CAMP Meals : Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner DAY 05: HIKE TO CHELE Having completed the trekking formalities, you proceed out of Kagbeni north past the mani wall and check point. You have about 7 hours of trekking in front of you. 6 Crossing the riverbeds, you can search for saligrams, or fossils. Here you may find more than remain in the more visited lower parts of the Kali Gandhaki beds. Almost immediately the path climbs quite steeply up into a jumble of gullies and small towers, zigzagging to a viewpoint over Kagbeni with Nilgiri providing a dazzling white fluted backdrop. The trail keeps to the east bank, climbing and descending to avoid the many river crossings that are necessary if you are taking stony flat plain route used by horse riders and locals. At one point, the trail drops down to the plain, but returns again to the east bank, undulating northwards past a village and monastery on the west bank. A trail leads west up across a very high pass to Dolpo from this village. After 2 hours the trail starts to climb steeply northeast to cross a vertical walled bluff. On the west bank there is an increasingly dramatic view up the canyon of the Lungpa Khola. The trail climbs steeply for approximately 650feet to a flattish plateau region of small rounded wiry bushes, and then climbs much more gradually. Soon a few of the upper cultivate fields of Tangbe are visible. From here there is a short steep descent on some scree, so care is needed as you walk. After crossing the small tributary of the Tangbe Khola, the path climbs gently to Tangbe. Narrow streets lead into the village of white and red colored houses, a few chortens and fairly extensive fields. Lunch here after about 4 hours of walking. From Tangbe the trail again climbs to a high point around 10,170 feet. From here the route ahead unfolds with a stunning view towards great red canyon walls, where the river enters a narrow defile. The village of Chele (Tsaile) can be seen, perched high above the river on the west bank, up a side canyon. The trail then drops steeply and undulates along the east bank of the Kali Gandhaki for one hour to the village of Chuksang. Crossing the stony floor of the Narsing Khola, one of the major side canyons on the route, the village of Tsetang is visible to the east. The trail passes below another fort and village with red and white striped buildings to the east. On the west side are great towering cliffs of amazing eroded pipes, chimneys and gullies in glowing yellow, gold, orange and red colors. After a short walk along the riverbed, there is a solid bridge across the Kali Gandaki at the point where it tunnels its way under a vast block of red sandstone. From here it is a short sharp climb to Chele and camp. Accommodation : CAMP Meals : Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner DAY 06: CROSS THE HIMALAYAS AND HIKE TO GHILING This is the longest and most difficult day of the trip. Immediately on leaving Chele, the path ascends steeply upto a plateau region through a small tunnel–like gully. Climbing more gradually, you will see the village of Ghyakar appearing in the west as the path rounds a corner. A tremendous canyon opens out between the trail and the village, surrounded by patchwork fields of rich red buckwheat and brilliant green. The trail, narrow in places, hugs the east wall of the canyon, with almost vertical drops and loose edges. In a few places natural saltoozes from the yellow conglomerate wall. This narrow path leads around, always climbing, to a pass at 3550m.The view south offers a panorama of Nilgiri, Tilicho Peak and Yakawa Kang, the peak that dominates the Thorong Pass on the Annapurna Circuit. To the far east the range of the Damodar Danda snow peak is visible. The hills, according to writer, Michael Peissel, extended “As far as we could see to the north in great undulating waves of rounded peaks wearing caps of snow.” From the pass it is a short descent to Samar, a pleasant settlement in a grove of willows with good running water in irrigation channels. Just before the village is water driven mill on the left. This part of the walk takes about 3hours. At this point it is worth noting that between Samar and Ghiling the trail remains mainly high, above 12,139 feet. The only possible camping places and teahouses are all above this point. The path leaves Samar near a large chorten and dives steeply for about 230 feet into a deep side canyon. Inevitably, it is a short steep climb out, and, after a brief respite, the trail dives again into another side canyon. This second climb is steeper and longer, but becomes more gradual, passing between cut and stunted juniper bushes. This appears to have been quite an extensive area of juniper trees in the past, but is now suffering from over-cutting and erosion. After about two hours of walking from Samar, your each 12,303 feet, and then descend slightly to the first tea house. The ground here is not flat and there is little space for more than a few tents. The second teahouse can be seen in the distance, but once more the trail dives into another steep solitary canyon. Climbing out, you come to the teahouse, with a very nice flat, apparently purposely-built, camping area. This place is known as Syangbochen. From here, you have another hike over one last pass to Ghiling for the night, where you will either camp or stay in the Himalaya teahouse. Accommodation : LODGE OR CAMP Meals : Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner DAY 07: HIKE TO TSARANG From Ghiling, the trail continues contours with only a slight uphill around the side of the mountain. After about45 minutes, you then start the long climb to the Nyi Pass at 3950 m. A long descent, out of the wind, takes you down more steeply to Ghami, 11,548. Here, you can explore the town and enjoy an early lunch. From the Gompa in Ghami, two tracks lead down into a gully east of the village, one steeply past a trio of red, black and white chortens that are a common sight in upper Mustang district. Of course, this is the one you take.  At the bottom of the gully are two bridges across the river, and you can cross on the new suspension bridge. The trail climbs onto a gently sloping plateau and passes beside a very long mani wall, the longest in Nepal, about 30minutes from Ghami. From the end of the wall, the trailheads east away from a very dramatic red eroded canyon wall towering above the village of Tramar in the distance. Climbing steadily for about two hours, you will reach an altitude of 12,369 feet. The descent to Tsarang is mostly gentle and completed in an additional two hours. The name came originally, according to Peissel, from Chaptrun, Tsetrang or “Cock’s Crest,” after the rocky ridge on which stand the remnants of a huge castle. The town also boasts a large Sakyapa monastery, once peopled by more than 1,000 monks, and now inhabited only by the echoes of the past. Tucci describes Tsarang as once a“Gallery of Art,” with Tibetan, Nepalese and Indian statues, as well as beautiful thankas, which have molded or vanished with thieves.  Accommodation : LODGE OR CAMP Meals : Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner DAY 08: HIKE TO LO MANTHANG The trail leaves Tsarang to the northwest and, once clear of the village, drops steeply into the Tsarang Chucanyon. The path passes a water pipe, part of a hydroelectric scheme providing evening lighting for the village. After crossing the river, the path turns a corner and heads north. Here, a fine view unfolds to the south with Tsarang on the edge of the cliff in the foreground and the great white Himalayan peaks of Nilgiri, Tilicho and Annapurna 1 behind. Bhrikuti Peak is visible to the southeast. The trail climbs gently along the west side of a side valley to an isolated chorten at 11,877 feet, two hours from Tsarang. A further hour takes you to 3700 m with some spectacular caves high up in the cliffs to the east. The path crosses a stream and heads north. About here there is a small grassy patch, which is a good spot to eat a packed lunch if it’s not too windy. Here also is a small teashop in a spot named Eklobati again, where you can have some refreshments and watch the sheep grazing out front. The trail now heads across an open region, always climbing gently beside a cliff of fine yellow conglomerate and dark horizontal iron bands. Having climbed to around 12,139 feet, you reach a pass, and, through a narrow “window” at the summit, the view opens out to display the western valley of Lo Manthang. The bright red and grey monastery of Namgyal sits on top of a promontory, with the wide valley surrounding Tingkar (the site of the king’s summer palace)and Phuwa village behind. Just down from the pass is the first dramatic view of the walled city of Lo Manthang and the ancient ruined forts on the hills behind. There is a tremendous view to the east of the red, blue-grey, white and yellow eroded Mustang Khola canyon. To the north lie the flattish red colored hills and the Tibetan border. The western view is dominated by the snow capped-peak of Manaslu. The descent to Lo Manthang is short, and, after crossing the small river and climbing briefly, you finally reach the fabled city.  As you enter, remember to dismount your horses as you pass through the town gate. Dismounting is a way of paying respect to Chenrizi, the God of Compassion, Mani, the prayer wheel, and Jhong Lha, the Deity of the Fort. Accommodation : LODGE Meals : Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner DAY 09: EXPLORE TOWN AND WATCH FESTIVALS About 1100 Lobas (people of Lo) dwell in the mud houses of this walled city with only one entrance, through the huge wooden gate through which you walked into town. The city itself is divided into four wards, whose names refer to their respective shrines or deities – Gunthang is the shrine of Mahakala; Domaling, the shrine of Tara; Potaling, the shrine of Dipangar Buddha, and Jythang, the shrine of Maitreya, the Future Buddha. In the middle of the town is the early 14th century palace, believed to have been built by the first King of Mustang, Ame Pal. The present King is his 22nd descendent. You can begin to explore the town, wandering the narrow high walled streets, visiting the library built by READ Nepal and the towns people, with support from READ Global. The building houses not just a library, but computers, an audio-visual center, the Early Childhood Center, a 24- hour medical emergency facility and a wonderful meeting room. The meeting room and 11 storefronts underneath generate income to support the library/community center. Also worth visiting is the school, holding classes up through grade 8. SPRING Late afternoon, you will be able to take part in the very special spring Tiji Festival, an annual event that is particular to this area of Nepal. The name is an abbreviation of Tempa, Chirim,"or “Prayer for World Peace”. The festival is dedicated to Guru Rimpoche, with the hope of bringing peace and prosperity to the valley and allsentient beings. Monks of Choedhe Monastery, a Sakya sect, whose abbot is Khempo Tasi Tenzing Rimpoche, organize the festival and dances. The festival has three parts – the basic dances and cleansing of the area by the dancers, battles between the forces of good and evil and the triumph of good, the exorcism of evil from the town and bringing of peace to the valley. In between watching the festival, you can explore the city.  Today is the first day of the Yarlung Horse Festival, complete with parades, blessings, racing and acrobatics.  Accommodation : LODGE Meals : Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner DAY 10: ENJOY THE FESTIVAL AND WANDER THE TOWN Today is the second day of the Festival. Lo Monathang itself means “Plain of Aspiration,” and the city is built in a flat valley on a broad plain with three broad snow-capped peaks to the northwest. There is one entrance in the walls. In the 14th century, Mustang was attached to Tibet, and was the most significant cultural center between central and western Tibet. The present dynasty dates from the end of the 18th century, belongs to the Thakali caste, and blends the Gorkha and Tibetan cultures. Traditionally, all of the queens of Mustang hailed from Tibet. All the kings were descended fromthe warrior Ame Pal, who lived between 1380 and 1450and constructed the fortress of Ketcher Dzong and thegreat walled city to fend off invaders from Tibet in thenorth and Jumla in the southwest. According to Peissel,Mustang, although never conquered by Nepal, paidtribute to Jumla as the result of many wars between thetwo kingdoms. The Lobas themselves are exclusively Buddhist, andbelong to the Sakya sect. The oldest of the Gompas is Jhampa Gompa, built in 1387AD, and is believed to be areplica of Ghangtse Jhampa in Tibet. The hallmarks of the gompa are the gold painted tantric mandalas covering the interior first and second story walls. Thupchen is the second oldest gompa in town, built in the early 15th century by the third King of Mustang. Despite being smaller than Jhampa, it is extremely rich architecturally and artistically. At present, Choede is the main gompa of Lo, and the center of religious activity. Built in 1757, it is the home ofthe Khempo, and houses beautiful Thankas, including those of the main deities of the Teej Festival – Dorji Sonnuyand the sacred Thanka of Mahakala. Actually, the Crown Prince of Mustang’s son is a monk there. Also in town, and good to visit, is a small museum right near the palace gates. Accommodation : LODGE Meals : Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner DAY 11: LAST DAY OF FESTIVAL AND VISIT CAVES OF CHUSANG Today is the last day of either the Tiji or Yartung Festivals and your last day in Lo Manthang. Before the afternoon finale of the festival, we will take a horseback trip about an hour’s ride outside of town to the caves of Chusang – 108 caves in all, mostly empty but still very interesting. You can also visit the nearby town.  Accommodation : LODGE Meals : Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner DAY 12: HIKE TO DAKMAR VIA LO GEKAR This morning, you bid farewell to your new friends, leave LoManthang, and head back on a different route via Lo Gekar Gompa. Interestingly, Lo Gekar predates Samye Monasteryand, since Mustang was once part of Tibet, is actually the first monastery in Tibet After spending some time at the monastery, you will continue on to Dakmar for the night. Here you will find more caves that are contemporary with those in Chusang. If you are a rock climber, you may want to try and climb up. Accommodation : CAMP Meals : Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner DAY 13: HIKE BACK TO SYANGBOCHEN From Dakmar, you travel to Tsongkar for lunch and then continue on to Syangbochen for the night.  Accommodation : LODGE OR CAMP Meals : Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner DAY 14: VISIT CAVE TEMPLE. CONTINUE TO SAMAR AND CROSS HIMALAYAS TO CHELE This morning, you will make a detour to see a fascinating cave temple, with a delightful old caretaker. Then, from the cave, you will continue on to Samar for lunch. After lunch, your path will take you up the hills and across the passes before descending to Chele. You will overnight here. Accommodation : CAMP Meals : Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner DAY 15: RETURN TO KAGBENI Your path today will take you once again along the Kali Gandhaki to Kagbeni. Here you can stay again in the Red House Lodge. Accommodation : RED HOUSE LODGE OR CAMP Meals : Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner DAY 16: WALK BACK TO JOMSOM The last day on trek – a walk down to Jomsom. Once you get to Jomsom, you will overnight at Om’s Home.  Accommodation : OM’S HOME Meals : Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner DAY 17: FLY KATHMANDU VIA POKHARA. FREE AFTERNOON. This morning, you return to Pokhara and connect back to Kathmandu. The rest of the day is free to shop or wander the city. Tonight’s dinner is on your own.  Accommodation : HOTEL YAK AND YETI Meals : Breakfast DAY 18: VISIT PATAN AND BHAKTAPUR You rise early to spend the morning in Patan, one of the three cities of the Kathmandu Valley. Also called Lalitpur, the “Beautiful city”, Patan is the most Buddhist of the three cities and famous for its excellent metalwork. In the morning, you will visit the Golden Temple, the largest Newar Buddhist monastery in the valley and a superb example of Newari metalcraft. At this hour, you will participate in the morning rituals at the temple, where a constant stream of devotees offer their puja or worship to the main shrine image of Sakyamuni Buddha. You will then walk to the house of the Kumari, the living goddess, who manifests herself in the body of a virgin girl. The Goddess Kumari is one of the most popular deities in the valley, worshipped equally by Hindus and Buddhists. At her home you will take her darsan, that is, receive her divine vision. You will participate in her private worship, performed by members of her family and rarely seen by tourists. This will also be an opportunity to talk to her family and learn about what it is like to be a parent of a goddess and what her life is like. When you are done, you can have lunch at the Patan Museum in Dhurbar Square. From Patan, it is a short drive to Bhaktapur, the City of Devotees, and a visit to its Dhurbar Square, museum and unique temples. Bhaktapur resembles the Kathmandu of 20 years ago. In the center of town no cars are allowed and the original architecture of the valley has been retained. Here you can see the beautiful woodcarvings for which the Newari artisans of the valley are rightly famous. Bhaktapur is also known for its pottery. In one of the side squares, you can see the Kumalis, or potters making and firing their pots as they have done for centuries. Tonight, you will have a farewell dinner at Chez Caroline.  Accommodation : HOTEL YAK AND YETI Meals : Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner DAY 19: FLY TO BANGKOK OR OTHER DESTINATION The morning is free until time for you to depart. Accommodation : NONE Meals : Breakfast